Look Great in a Tuxedo by Following the Black Tie Rules

The tuxedo shirts that we (Black Lapel) sell come with the standard 4-stud set up and the 5th is a regular button. Most made-to-measure tuxedo shirts will offer you a 3 or 4-stud option, but we don’t know of anywhere that offers a 5-stud tuxedo shirt.

Do it to it. It’s smart to keep the inner lining dark on a formal garment like a tuxedo. Although the inner lining will hardly be visible, getting a flash of maroon paisley adds some swag to your black tie ensemble.

That’s really a matter of personal preference and since we’re a menswear brand with many different opinions, we can’t say which we (all of us) think.

That said, if budget is a consideration, the lace-ups would be our preference. Why? A good pair of black lace-up Oxfords can be worn with a tux (just be sure to give them a really good shine) and can also be worn with a suit to work, so they’re good multi-taskers. Formal loafers have a more specific use, so you likely won’t get the mileage out of them that you would out of lace-ups.

The issue is not the cummerbund, it’s the awkwardness of the differing pieces in this ensemble that are hurting you here, Bob.

On the one hand you’ve got a double-breasted dinner jacket (which gives you a really cool take on the tux so big thumbs up on that). Then you’ve got a cummerbund, which is also a smart look that we endorse. But these two pieces don’t agree. A black tie getup should include some sort of cover for the waist. Usually that means either a formal waistcoat or a cummerbund, however, when you’ve got a double-breasted jacket on, the jacket is the waist cover, so it is one of the only times when it’s preferable to go without a waistcoat or cummerbund.

Then you’ve got the seemingly out-of-the-blue decision to add a long neck tie which throws your whole outfit out of balance. Black tie means you should be wearing a bow tie. Sure, you can chill out a tux look with a long necktie and pull off the look in some settings, but there’s a high degree of difficulty to that move. (You’ve basically got to be Nick Wooster to do something like that.) Even Nick Wooster himself couldn’t pull that off with a double breasted dinner jacket. The tuxedo is a very specific combination of garments that signify a level of formality. A double breasted jacket ups the formality while a neck tie lowers it. The combination looks kind of mixed up (not what you’re going for). We recommend you wear a black bow tie with your black tie look. Not sure how to tie one? Right on cue, we just published a quick set of instructions for how to tie a bow tie.

It sounds like you’re on the fence about whether you want to wear a tuxedo at all, Kurt. We’re all for bending the black tie rules a bit but what you’re describing sounds more like a suit. A tuxedo would have black satin lapels and a pair of pants without belt loops that feature a black strip of satin down the outseam. So a midnight blue tuxedo should look like this. Things like belt loops are big no-nos when you’re wearing a tuxedo so we would recommend you reconsider this outfit.

So what options would we recommend? There are several:

1. If you want to wear a tuxedo, don’t take a half step. Go all the way and wear an actual midnight blue tuxedo, or
2. If you want to put a different spin on the tux, go with a Royal Blue Dinner Jacket with Black Tuxedo Pants, or a Midnight Brown Dinner Jacket with Black Tuxedo Pants or
3. If all this formality is too much for you, go with a midnight blue suit customized with peak lapels and accessorize it with a dark tie neck tie, white shirt, white pocket square and black shoes for a classy, dressy look.

We hope one of these alternatives will work for you. If you’re still interested in the blue tux idea, check out our story on how Blue is the New Black Tie.

It’s true, as you may have read on The Compass in our story on Proper Suit Care, dry cleaning regularly can be hard on the wool, shortening the life of your suit or tuxedo. However, when we say regularly, we mean like once every couple of weeks. Dry cleaning it ocassionally is fine. Since you don’t wear a tux that often, once a year is probably just the right frequency. As for the shirt, have your dry cleaner launder it every time you wear it. All of this is assuming you have a reputable dry cleaner that you can trust with a quality product like a Black Lapel tuxedo.

With both items, since they aren’t part of your regular rotation, store them in a breathable bag like this canvas one will keep dust from settling on your formalwear. A wooden hanger will them keep their shape between wearings.

Now go out there and knock ’em dead at your wedding, Kevin!

The choice here is between a vest and a cummerbund. Remember, a cummerbund is not a belt. It doesn’t serve the function of holding your pants in place, but it’s a way to cover your waist. A formal vest is there to cover your waist also (hence the name waistcoat). Suspenders, on the other hand, have a function–holding your pants in place. So, we suggest suspenders under either a vest or cummerbund.

As for which one, vest or cummerbund, that’s a matter of preference. Some say that a cummerbund is better looking under a shawl lapel jacket and a vest is better looking under a peak lapel jacket. We’re not sticklers about that one, though. We don’t have a favorite here at Black Lapel, we each cover our waists differently when we turn it up to 11 and go black tie. That said, the slimmer you are the better a vest will look on you. On the flip side the cummerbund, when worn correctly, can help downplay a larger belly. So go with what best fits your body and, most importantly, what looks best to you.

A pleated tuxedo shirt should always be worn with a bow tie. The pleats and the neck tie would look strange together, so stick with the bow tie, BeeJay.

Nice, Brian. Sounds like you’re ready to take Black Tie to the next level with that gray tux. In that case, we recommend checking out our Beyond Black Tie article where we suggested changing things up with a silk knit bow tie. A black wool bow tie is another way to mix things up a bit.

One thing, though, Brian. Wool ties are seasonal. If you’re planning to wear this tuxedo in warmer weather, stick with a silk bow tie. Is a wool bow tie significantly warmer than a silk one? Probably not, but the look is touch too wintry for, say, a black tie summer wedding.

Aaaah prom. So many ill-conceived outfits. It sounds like your boy’s getting good advice at home but, of course, girls trump Mom and Dad.

We’re with you on the black braces. Mother of pearl studs, if they’re white, will contrast strongly with the black shirt and likely overpower the outfit since the shirt and jacket will both be black. We’re recommend black studs, for the same reason we agreed with you on the black braces, to keep the attention on his face, not on the sharp contrasts on his shirt.

Keep the young gentleman looking sharp!

We say go with the black cummerbund and forego the belt altogether. Any black tie look—full tuxedo or dinner jacket and pants—shouldn’t be worn with a belt. In fact, true tuxedo pants shouldn’t even have belt loops. Congrats and good luck suiting up for your wedding!

Yes, the front button should also be fabric covered and likely was to start. You can reference any of our tuxedos to see what a fabric covered front button looks like on a tuxedo!

First off, kudos to you for taking an interest in your son’s style!

To answer the question about the bow tie, we generally think some of the rules of black tie can be bent. In fact, we wrote a whole article about it. But one rule we adhere to is that black tie requires a tie that is black. Why? Partially because it just sounds silly to wear a non-black tie to a black tie event. But the main reason we follow this rule is that the color of the tie has meaning. White tie, black tie’s more formal brother, is for different types of events.

All these social codes and rules can make you feel a little like you’re living at Downton Abbey and we realize that prom is a celebration, not an opportunity for climbing the social ladder of early 20th century British aristocracy, but still, we recommend sticking with the classics and keeping the tie black.

We recommend the classic black silk bow tie. You don’t want to go overboard on the velvet, but props on the tux—you’re going to look badass at your wedding reception.

This sounds like one kick-ass outfit. Its definitely wedding appropriate, but we’re worried that no dress code was specified. If the wedding was black tie than that would’ve definitely been specified. Since the dress code wasn’t specific, we’re thinking it could be a more casual affair and your outfit is very formal. If possible, it couldn’t hurt to reach out to the bride/groom to clarify and if they get back to you with a “semi-formal” or “cocktail attire” answer, then check out this story on decoding the wedding dress code.

Of course you can! This is a very dapper combination so don’t be afraid to take the risk.

You can, but you will probably look over-dressed if the wedding attire has not been deemed “black tie”. You could also end up looking like or competing with the groom’s appearance (a big no-no). In any case, your cummerbund shouldn’t match your bow tie if said bow tie is paisley. This rule should only be applied to traditional black tie, mainly solid colors. If you need some ideas on what to wear to a wedding with a certain dress code, read this.

Hello there, Ms. Bride-to-Be. Congrats on your upcoming wedding! Your fiancé can swap out the cummerbund for a belt no problem. It will give a less prom-y look than a coral colored cummerbund would. If you were thinking about getting a cummerbund the color of his tux (we’re guessing it’s black or blue), this would definitely be a more formal option. A belt, as long as it’s nice, will still make him look very put-together on your big day. We say you should approach this situation depending on the formality of your wedding. Hope this helps & good luck!

We recommend turn-down collars these days. They are more modern and let the bow tie take back a little bit of the limelight. You should let your personal style — are your more modern or more old school? — influence your decision, but it definitely doesn’t hurt to have both in your wardrobe 🙂

Hey there, Aman. Unfortunately, we’re always going to recommend black shoes with a black tuxedo. That being said, we still believe in personal style and admire your desire to stand out from a sea of black tuxedos paired with black shoes. You aren’t heading towards embarrassment by wearing dark brown leather shoes, your look may just be heading towards a more casual appearance overall. This could be OK for a farewell function. Our final thought? If you want to stand out by not wearing black shoes, you may want to go with an even lighter/brighter pair of brown leather shoes.

The white bow tie changes everything. Black tie is one level of formality lower than white tie. For most people black tie is the highest level of formality they’re going to dress for. White tie is for really BIG events like the Nobel Prize ceremony or a coronation. If you’re not getting honored for your groundbreaking work in Chemistry or about to be crowned the king of your own country, white tie can be a bit much. The same is true for a morning coat (one with tails).

Similarly a white pique waistcoat is a little over the top. A black waistcoat, either single- or double-breasted with lapels that match the jacket is the way to go if you’re going to wear a waistcoat with a peak lapel tux. The other option, a black cummerbund, is a stylish move and it’s much easier to get one to fit you flawlessly.

If you’re eschewing the cummerbund and waistcoat, then your best bet is to avoid studs and use a hidden placket in your shirt so that you have a smooth front like this.

For more on bending the black tie rules, check out our story on going Beyond Black Tie.

Hi Ammar, I’m not totally sure what you mean by “normal colored tie.” But if you’re rocking a black tuxedo with a satin shawl lapel, you best be wearing a black tie or bow tie to keep your look classically formal!

A black tuxedo is traditional, but for a festive affair like a wedding other colors are definitely acceptable (within reason, of course). But before we address color, we should address the real problem here: fit. If fit is your problem, you came to the right place to solve it. Black Lapel offers a made-to-measure tuxedos that can be completely customized to your liking at reasonable prices. Want a tuxedo that fits you flawlessly? Here you go.

And, when you do the math, you might find that owning a quality tuxedo is less expensive than renting. For more individual advice on how to get a great fitting tuxedo, email us at concierge@blacklapel.com.

If you’re worried these shoes aren’t formal enough, fear not. Formal opera pumps, as we noted above, are a classic old-school black tie shoe. According to strict black tie rules, lace-ups are actually the less formal of the two.

As for wearing them sockless, that is definitely out of bounds by the traditional rules of black tie. But rules are for beginners. The truly stylish man understands them well enough to know how to bend and break them when he deems it sartorially necessary. Here’s the thing about going sockless in a tuxedo: you’ve got to make sure your ankles are well-kept. Nothing breaks up the continuity of a perfectly creased pair of wool formal pants and a pair of patent leather formal pumps more than a gnarly, hairy, pale, ankle and foot. If your ankles would look better with socks, then don’t eschew the socks just to be trendy. In other words, tread carefully.

If you’re wondering about how to fold the pocket square, we like the puff fold for a black tie look, but a square fold is always acceptable.

Not sure what your question is about rental tuxedos. Actually, it doesn’t matter, our answer will be the same: we don’t recommend renting a tuxedo. Aside from the horrible fits, they’re not always the deal you might be thinking they are. Even if you don’t buy a tuxedo from us, we’d still recommend you buy a tuxedo instead of renting.

Suspenders, or braces as the brits like to say, are a classic part of a black tie outfit (by the way, “black tie” refers to a tuxedo with a bow tie). Belts are not a part of the black tie outfit, so suspenders are the way to hold up your pants. Take off the cummerbund or waistcoat on our black tie outfits and you’re likely to find a pair of suspenders.

Pinstripes are usually saved for business suits, Bryan. If you’re looking to add an odd waistcoat to a tux, try a solid gray, like we did here for a little contrast.

Traditionally a dinner jacket has a satin or grosgrain lapel that is black regardless of the fabric color. That’s what you’d get if you got a tuxedo from Black Lapel. We can’t speak for other brands, but we stick with black for our tuxedo lapels.

Regardless, mixing blue and black is proper when it comes to formal wear, so your black bow tie and accessories sound just right. After all, they call it “black tie” for a reason.

If you have other questions about your black tie outfit, feel free to send your pictures and questions along to concierge@blacklapel.com for more one-on-one style advice.

It’s a common misconception that a cummerbund is just a big belt, so we can see how you would ask if you could do away with it if you’re wearing braces. But a cummerbund is not meant to hold up your pants, but to cover your midsection. The two items (braces and cummerbunds) happen to be in the same area of your body but they’re not mutually exclusive.

A lot of guys are anti-cummerbund but many of us are sticking with them. (We are even divided within the Black Lapel team.) But if you’re looking to play it by the book, either a cummerbund or a waistcoat is required for black tie events, but braces are optional.

A one button tuxedo jacket is always the move, Steve, regardless of size. Wearing a two-button tuxedo is punching your ticket on the express to Scrubville. If you’re concerned about the fit, the key is not to try to hide under a jacket that’s got enough fabric for two, just give yourself some room in a couple of key areas like the stomach and hips.

If you really want to nail the fit (not to toot our own horn but “toot toot”) you should order one to your exact measurements from us.

This is a fantastic story, Dave. Our goal is that more young men follow in your footsteps and start dressing better, living better and becoming better. You’ve set a great example. Here’s to you.

In a pinch, yes, Monty, you can do this, but expect discerning eyes to notice. We recommend getting a pair of proper formal pants like these, ASAP.

We love a vest with a tux, Edward. The “waistcoat” we referred to above is actually a vest. We not only like them, we offer them with all of our tuxedos and recommend them if you want to put a modern take on the stylish rogue look of yesteryear.

Definitely sounds like you’re knocking ’em dead, Seth!

Got some pics to send along?

Military dress formal is acceptable at black tie events but really works better for military events. Consider the mood of the event. If you’re going to a joyous occasion like a civilian friend’s black tie wedding, rolling up in military regalia may make you look seriously out of place.

You make a good point, Josh. Though a waist covering is considered optional, we are pro-cummerbund/waistcoat. While we do like to assume that our readers are in excellent shape, ;-), a waist covering is always a good look. We’ve added in a section on the options.

Sounds like you’ve been to a few black tie events. Care to tell us how you what was your secret to looking fly in black tie?