Look Great in a Tuxedo by Following the Black Tie Rules
You’ve mastered your custom suit. You’ve got an impeccable collection of ties. Your pocket square game? On point. Your wardrobe is pretty much ready for anything…until you get that little envelope in the mail. You’ve been invited to a black tie event, which happens a lot when the end of the year approaches. What do you wear to a black tie event? Classic black tie means a black tuxedo, but there are other black tie rules to know. So, how do you look your best in a tuxedo outfit when you don’t wear one that often? Read on to learn how to wear a tuxedo.
Black tie attire should be easy, right? It’s basically a uniform. You throw on a tux, give your shoes a quick shine and you’re off. So how do so many guys still don’t know how to wear a tuxedo? There’s an art to looking good in formal wear. Here’s how:
Step 1: Make sure your tux fits.
Getting the fit right is 90% of the game. If you’re trim and athletic, don’t go for a swim in a big boxy tuxedo, instead, opt for a slim fit tuxedo. Even if you’re bigger than your ideal size, don’t try to hide it with a jacket that’s got enough fabric for you and your date to wear to the black tie event. Just give yourself some room in a couple of key areas like the stomach and hips.
Step 2: Get yourself proper tuxedo accessories.
Black tie rules require you to be a stickler for details the night of the event. The key to shining in your black tie outfit is nailing the little things like wearing a proper tuxedo dress shirt, black tie shoes, a bowtie, cufflinks, a formal pocket square, and a tuxedo belt, waistcoat or cummerbund. That may sound like a lot, but we’ll break down all of the tuxedo parts in more detail below.
Step 3: Keep the tuxedo style simple.
If you’re a complete novice when it comes to wearing a tuxedo, keep things simple. While other black tie or black tie optional occasions allow for more unique tuxedo styles, the traditional color will always be a black tuxedo. As you’ll see in our breakdown below, a classic tuxedo outfit holds up quite well.
The Dinner Jacket
So what makes a tuxedo jacket a tuxedo jacket? Start with a one button tuxedo with satin shawl or peak lapels. Give your one-button tux some piped pockets, keep it vent-less, and you’ll be ready to go. Stay away from notch lapels and two or more buttons on your dinner jacket. Bonus points if the left lapel has a working buttonhole (one caveat: we don’t recommend a working buttonhole for shawl lapels). Look for the loop on the underside, just below the hole, to securely stow a boutonniere stem.
What to get: Black Custom Dinner Jacket available from Black Lapel.
The Trousers
The trousers are pretty straightforward. The main thing to consider is how you’re going to hold them up…
Do you wear a belt with a tux?
Ideally, you don’t want to wear a belt with a tuxedo. Tuxedo trousers are more sleek when worn with suspenders/braces or the pants are customized with side tabs. However if your tuxedo trousers do have belt loops, we recommend you go to a tailor to have them removed ASAP. If there’s no time for that, it’s worse to leave the belt loops empty. Get a polished, black leather belt and make sure the belt’s hardware isn’t flashy and you won’t be breaking any black tie rules wearing a belt with your tuxedo.
As for the style of the trousers, pleated or plain front is up to you. Plain front appears more minimalist, and emphasizes a slender/athletic body type; pleats help trousers drape nicely, creating more of a vertical line on the front of the leg. Whether you choose plain front or pleated, avoid cuffs which will look too casual.
What to get: Black Custom Tuxedo Pants available from Black Lapel.
The Tuxedo Shirt
A tuxedo shirt should always be white, but you have a few shirt styles to choose from when deciding what shirt to wear with a tuxedo. A straightforward solid white shirt will work as a classic tuxedo shirt, though one with pleats or a pique bib is a sharp choice. Tuxedo dress shirts should have a semi-spread or spread collar to frame the bow tie and come equipped with French cuffs. Wing collars are an option for the old school gent, but turn down collars work just as well and you may get more wear out of the shirt outside of formal events.
What to get: White Custom Tuxedo Shirt or White with Pique Bib Custom Tuxedo Shirt both available from Black Lapel.
The Tuxedo Cummerbund and Waistcoat
A classic black tie outfit features a cummerbund or a waistcoat. When you’re wearing a one-button dinner jacket, you need one or the other to cover up your tuxedo shirt. By bridging that gap with a swank cummerbund or waistcoat, you present a continuous look from the waist down, which also makes you look taller and slimmer. With either option, the silk should be of the same type and color (black) as your bow tie and lapels.
What to get: Waistcoats available with all Black Lapel tuxedos.
The Black Tie Accessories
The best tux tie is a black bow tie. One-up your tuxedo etiquette by tying the bow tie yourself. While it takes some practice, the imperfections from tying your own bow adds character to a refined look. A set of tuxedo studs and cufflinks are a tuxedo outfit must-have. Silver with onyx inlay is always a safe choice. A formal pocket square is another must. A white silk pocket square in a puffed or square fold is a good go-to.
What to get: Butterfly or Diamond Point Black Bow Tie, both available at Black Lapel. White Silk Pocket Square available at Black Lapel. Tuxedo Studs and Cufflinks Set available at Black Lapel.
The Tuxedo Shoes
When it comes to what shoes to wear with a tuxedo, a plain-toe shoe is your best bet. Think smooth, shiny lines. Black patent leather tuxedo shoes are the standard though, in many cases, you can get away with a pair of well-polished, black leather cap toe oxfords. Black tie socks are generally silk, but thin cotton or wool work as well.
What to get: Magnanni Black Patent Tuxedo Oxfords or Loake Rothschild Black Cap-Toe Oxfords
Now that you’re armed with the basics of how to wear a tuxedo, you’re ready to hit the scene. Got a formal holiday party to attend? A swanky gala for your favorite charity? Follow these guidelines and you’re guaranteed to look better than the waitstaff (and 90% of the other guests) at your next event.
Have you already killed it in a tux? What was your secret to looking fly in black tie? Let us know in the comments below.
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So, I need a little help picking pocket squares. My tux jacket will be teal and my bowtie will be black. For my groomsmen, their tuxes will be black, but their bowties will each be a different color: mustard, burgundy, teal, terracotta, rust orange. I think a white pocket square may fit my tux/bowtie combo, but I’m a little in the dark about the others. Thoughts are appreciated!!!
I am attending a formal event and am wearing a black tuxedo with a vest and white shirt. I would like accent with a black and red Paisley bow tie and wanted to ask, what would you suggest for a complimentary pocket square?
Can I wear a white tux jacket, it has a black lapel-and a black shirt with white studs, and no bow tie to a black tie wedding?
Im planning on attending a formal black tie gala. I’m wearing a vest: Long tie vs hand tie bow tie? And is a pair a bbn lack braces w/grey accent okay, it just go straight black?
Hey Keith!
Go with a bow-tie, it’s a way better look, especially at a black-tie event. Secondly, either variation of the braces works, especially since you’re wearing a vest and you won’t see them unless you take off your jacket and vest.
Do you think gold colored studs with dark blue onyx would be fine with a navy blue tuxedo?
Hey there!
To answer your question shortly, yes, that works just fine. When tuxedos are in the mix, you’ll always want to opt for a gold/black stud with dark inserts. Since your tuxedo is navy, gold is the optimal choice and a dark blue onyx pairs well.
Sorry but tux trousers never have belt loops, you never wear a belt with a tux, and you always cover the trouser waistband with a cummerbund or a waistcoat.
Pete,
While you’re correct in assuming the vast majority of tux trousers don’t have loops, we wanted to cover all the bases in case someone found themselves looped into a sticky situation (pun very much intended).
I have recently bought a navy blue suit with black satin shawl lapel. Black bow tie (self-tie of course) and black cummerbund. Firstly can I wear a lapel pin with a shawl lapel and where should I position it. And what is an acceptable colour?
Also you mention that the jacket should have no vent. I’ve just realised mine has a double vent. Is this a faux pas?
A shawl lapel won’t have a working buttonhole, so be careful with a lapel pin on a satin lapel as you might damage the fabric. Overall, a tuxedo probably doesn’t need a lapel pin unless you’re getting married or a groomsman. If it is a super special occasion, position the pin on the left lapel an inch or two under your collarbone. As for the jacket, double vents are not a faux pas. Ventless dinner jackets are just the more classic option and double-vents are more modern and stylish, so it sounds like you’re on the right track to us!
I want to wear a tuxedo shirt that has studs going all the way down. I’m not wearing a belt or vest to cover the bottom buttons that aren’t studded. Are there shirts available that have the studs going all the way down?
The tuxedo shirts that we (Black Lapel) sell come with the standard 4-stud set up and the 5th is a regular button. Most made-to-measure tuxedo shirts will offer you a 3 or 4-stud option, but we don’t know of anywhere that offers a 5-stud tuxedo shirt.
Dear Black Lapel,
What’s your thoughts on having a colored lining in a midnight blue tux jacket? I was thinking of a dark maroon paisley.
Do it to it. It’s smart to keep the inner lining dark on a formal garment like a tuxedo. Although the inner lining will hardly be visible, getting a flash of maroon paisley adds some swag to your black tie ensemble.
Thanks, very much appreciated!
Regarding the bit about belt loops, I believe those should be removed posthaste if your tuxedo trousers have them! A good tailor can remove them and have it look like they were never even there. I would also have them sew in some brace buttons so you still have some method of trouser suspension.
At the same time, look at other aspects of the tuxedo you purchased and see if it is still worth it. If it has more than one button (double breasted excepted), notch lapels, a bad fit beyond alterations, or just looks bad all around… you’re better off just finding a more suitable tuxedo.
Agreed that it’s always better to have tuxedo trousers without belt loops…we included that bit for the guy who doesn’t have the time or luxury to get the belt loops removed by a tailor before the black tie event. Thanks for the added advice, it’s good stuff.
You’re welcome!
I am wearing a nice slim fit single button peak lapel. I am 6′ 185 and am looking for a fashion forward look. Would you recommend formal loafers, or lace-up shoes?
That’s really a matter of personal preference and since we’re a menswear brand with many different opinions, we can’t say which we (all of us) think.
That said, if budget is a consideration, the lace-ups would be our preference. Why? A good pair of black lace-up Oxfords can be worn with a tux (just be sure to give them a really good shine) and can also be worn with a suit to work, so they’re good multi-taskers. Formal loafers have a more specific use, so you likely won’t get the mileage out of them that you would out of lace-ups.
Hi
You mention accessorising with a white silk pocket square but these are difficult to maintain a straight fold. Would you favour a cotton substitute instead and what does etiquette dictate? Thanks
While we would maintain the silk pocket square is the way to go, we’re not going to say you can’t use a cotton substitute if that’s what you like better, afterall, the Duke of Windsor accessorized with cotton pocket squares, and if there’s one thing we can learn from him is that the style of the man belongs to the man himself. You could also try a wool pocket square, it will hold its shape better and be fitting for the upcoming fall and winter season.
Is it okay to wear a black color tuxedo jacket with black dress pants (non-tuxedo pants)?
Thank you for your suggestion in advance.
Nope. That is the very definition of half-assing it. This half-tux look says “I only half dressed up because I only want to be here.” That’s not the kind of impression you want to make, is it?
Hey there,
I have a beautiful warm gray charcoal dinner jacket with shawl lapel I’ll be wearing for my wedding at the end of the month. Black tux pants to go with it.
I’m struggling with the tie selection. My groomsmen are in charcoal suits, and dress code is not black tie. I just loved the jacket and wanted to stand out a bit. But I didn’t envision myself or my wedding party in bow ties, particularly black ones. Is there room for any color here? Or a long tie? I think I would look great with a black bow tie or long tie, but would it be strange for me or to be coordinated at all with the wedding party?
Thanks for the help!
Ryan
Whenever you have a dinner jacket on, we recommend a black bow tie, Ryan. Though the dress code may not be black-tie, your outfit becomes black-tie the moment you put that dinner jacket on. Also, as you said, you would look great with a black bow tie. That’s priority number one. After all, you’re the one getting married, you should be the best-dressed man at the wedding.
As for your groomsmen, they should be in neckties. Black would make a lot of sense since they’ll be in charcoal gray suits. This keeps everything cohesive among the wedding party while letting you stand out as the groom.
Question wearing a double breast4ed tux with turned down collar and a straight black tie can I still wear a cummerbun with the long tie?
The issue is not the cummerbund, it’s the awkwardness of the differing pieces in this ensemble that are hurting you here, Bob.
On the one hand you’ve got a double-breasted dinner jacket (which gives you a really cool take on the tux so big thumbs up on that). Then you’ve got a cummerbund, which is also a smart look that we endorse. But these two pieces don’t agree. A black tie getup should include some sort of cover for the waist. Usually that means either a formal waistcoat or a cummerbund, however, when you’ve got a double-breasted jacket on, the jacket is the waist cover, so it is one of the only times when it’s preferable to go without a waistcoat or cummerbund.
Then you’ve got the seemingly out-of-the-blue decision to add a long neck tie which throws your whole outfit out of balance. Black tie means you should be wearing a bow tie. Sure, you can chill out a tux look with a long necktie and pull off the look in some settings, but there’s a high degree of difficulty to that move. (You’ve basically got to be Nick Wooster to do something like that.) Even Nick Wooster himself couldn’t pull that off with a double breasted dinner jacket. The tuxedo is a very specific combination of garments that signify a level of formality. A double breasted jacket ups the formality while a neck tie lowers it. The combination looks kind of mixed up (not what you’re going for). We recommend you wear a black bow tie with your black tie look. Not sure how to tie one? Right on cue, we just published a quick set of instructions for how to tie a bow tie.
Do take the time to learn how to tie a bow tie! There’s something very come hither about a man who wears a tux well when his tie is dangling on his neck when the evening has gotten more casual! Also you might get challenged as to if YOU originally tied that tie! Badda-bing, badda-boom done AND without a mirror! You’ll impress!
Can you wear a tuxedo with a necktie and dress white shirt to a Christmas party where the invite says “business festive”?
Business festive, huh? That’s a new one.
A tuxedo is about as festive as they get. If you want to give it a relaxed vibe we say skip the tie altogether. Why? A tie adds a touch of formality. If you’re trying to take the formality out of a tux, wearing a necktie is a weak half-step. Instead, we recommend something more aggressive like an open collared navy gingham shirt with a midnight blue tuxedo. If you’re going to break with tradition, make it a clean break. For more ways to go beyond by-the-book black tie check out our Beyond Black Tie article.
With a midnight blue + black peak lapel tuxedo, I have chosen a turn down collar and white linen pocket square so far. What would be the best type of bow tie? What would be best color braces to wear? Would black with polka dots be over the top?
The bow tie type is a personal preference. The butterfly bow tie is a classic that looks great on everybody.
Traditionally, you’d wear white formal braces. Black also works. Polka dots are too zany in our book, but a more subdued pattern is one way you might bend the rules with the braces.
Can I wear two different styles antique dress shirt studs ?
Of course you could, but we wouldn’t recommend wearing mismatched studs. That’s basically begging people to look at your chest. Your clothes should enhance your look and that starts with framing your face in the best possible way. So, no, wouldn’t wear different styles of shirt studs.
I notice no-one talks about Marcella black bows ties now. I have several in both black and white and the black are worn with a Marcella shirt. None of the websites mention this apart from the odd thing relevant to white tie. Is there a reason for this or is it something from the obscure past?
Marcella bow ties aren’t seen too often these days and have a strong association with the more formal white tie, so they don’t get much attention. With the shift toward more casual looks across the board and the loosening of traditional black tie rules, interest in things like marcella bow ties is waning.
Of course, that hasn’t stopped us from offering a formal shirt with a pique bib. The look is elegant and refined and there’s nothing wrong with that.
I will be going to jail soon and want to wear a black tux going into the pen. The fellas will think I look dapper and I am a Don. Also, I can wink to the right fellas discretely knowing that I may have to do what I have to do to survive. Eit her way,I want to make a big statement cause I am a short guy but very bulky.
Is this the best way to show the fellas whose boss in the big house?
Everybody’s rocking the same basic jumpsuit on the way in, Rob. It’s on the way OUT that you want to make a show of it. Many guys doing long sentences go in with trendy clothes and then walk out like Fly Guy in I’m Gonna Git You Sucka. Luckily, no matter how long your bid is you’ll be coming out in timeless style if you follow the rules above and stick with a classic black tie getup.
Hi, I have a black tie event at Christmas in London and was interested to K of firstly if the waist coat lapel had to mirror the tuxedo lapel or if no lapel was better on the waist coat? Secondly as its winter would a silk scarf be better than a woolen one with the overcoat… is there an etiquette to the accessory?
As to the first question, a formal waistcoat lapel should match the facing on the dinner jacket lapel. So the waistcoat lapel ought to be either satin or grosgrain, whichever your dinner jacket’s lapel is. You can go with a waistcoat that doesn’t have a lapel but this is a less formal look that would be considered bending the black tie rules.
As for the scarf, silk would still be appropriate, for the same reasons. The colder it is the more tightly you may wnat to wrap it around your neck. If it’s a chilly night, you can let it hang nonchalantly from your neck and keeping your overcoat open. If it’s downright frigid, consider crossing it over your chest and under your buttoned up coat to better seal against the cold.
What colour pocket square should I wear with a black bow tie and midnight blue tuxedo. I know you shouldnt match your pocket square and tie but would a black silk pocket square be okay. I’m not really the flamboyant sort.
A simple, white silk pocket square is the way to go here, Viktor. It’s the standard for a tuxedo. Black would be going against tradition and not smart for someone who isn’t the flamboyant type. Plus, it’ll get lost in a midnight blue tuxedo making you look like you have no pocket square in (a big no-no when you’ve got a tux on).
I am getting married in July. It is not a super formal event (guests will likely wear a casual suit or sport coat and slacks with tie). However, I really liked the look of a particular midnight blue tuxedo jacket with midnight blue lapels. I am the groom, so I feel like looking extra spiffy. In this case, is it appropriate to wear a midnight/dark blue bow tie since the event is not black tie and the bow tie should match the lapels? Additionally, i prefer the dark blue pant look to black pant look. Since the pants i’m likely going to wear will have belt loops, do you recommend I wear a cummerbund with braces? If so, what color cummerbund makes sense?
Appreciate the help!
It sounds like you’re on the fence about whether you want to wear a tuxedo at all, Kurt. We’re all for bending the black tie rules a bit but what you’re describing sounds more like a suit. A tuxedo would have black satin lapels and a pair of pants without belt loops that feature a black strip of satin down the outseam. So a midnight blue tuxedo should look like this. Things like belt loops are big no-nos when you’re wearing a tuxedo so we would recommend you reconsider this outfit.
So what options would we recommend? There are several:
We hope one of these alternatives will work for you. If you’re still interested in the blue tux idea, check out our story on how Blue is the New Black Tie.
I got my tux from black lapel a year ago for my brothers wedding. I’m getting married next month and glad the tux still fits. In terms of cleaning the peak tuxedo and shirt, what would you recommend? I read that dry cleaning may not be the best way. Also when should I clean it? Two weeks before the wedding?
It’s true, as you may have read on The Compass in our story on Proper Suit Care, dry cleaning regularly can be hard on the wool, shortening the life of your suit or tuxedo. However, when we say regularly, we mean like once every couple of weeks. Dry cleaning it ocassionally is fine. Since you don’t wear a tux that often, once a year is probably just the right frequency. As for the shirt, have your dry cleaner launder it every time you wear it. All of this is assuming you have a reputable dry cleaner that you can trust with a quality product like a Black Lapel tuxedo.
With both items, since they aren’t part of your regular rotation, store them in a breathable bag like this canvas one will keep dust from settling on your formalwear. A wooden hanger will them keep their shape between wearings.
Now go out there and knock ’em dead at your wedding, Kevin!
I am going to a blacktie event and didn’t know if I need to wear a vest, suspenders, or cummerbunn. What do you recommend? Thanks!
The choice here is between a vest and a cummerbund. Remember, a cummerbund is not a belt. It doesn’t serve the function of holding your pants in place, but it’s a way to cover your waist. A formal vest is there to cover your waist also (hence the name waistcoat). Suspenders, on the other hand, have a function–holding your pants in place. So, we suggest suspenders under either a vest or cummerbund.
As for which one, vest or cummerbund, that’s a matter of preference. Some say that a cummerbund is better looking under a shawl lapel jacket and a vest is better looking under a peak lapel jacket. We’re not sticklers about that one, though. We don’t have a favorite here at Black Lapel, we each cover our waists differently when we turn it up to 11 and go black tie. That said, the slimmer you are the better a vest will look on you. On the flip side the cummerbund, when worn correctly, can help downplay a larger belly. So go with what best fits your body and, most importantly, what looks best to you.
Can you wear a traditional tuxedo shirt with pleats and the smaller collar fold down with a tie and vest. Or stick with the bow tie and vest?
A pleated tuxedo shirt should always be worn with a bow tie. The pleats and the neck tie would look strange together, so stick with the bow tie, BeeJay.
Hi,
My tux is dark gray with a black satin shawl lapel. I was thinking about getting a wool black bow tie and was wondering if that material would work, as I really like the look, or if I should stick with a satin or velvet bow tie
Nice, Brian. Sounds like you’re ready to take Black Tie to the next level with that gray tux. In that case, we recommend checking out our Beyond Black Tie article where we suggested changing things up with a silk knit bow tie. A black wool bow tie is another way to mix things up a bit.
One thing, though, Brian. Wool ties are seasonal. If you’re planning to wear this tuxedo in warmer weather, stick with a silk bow tie. Is a wool bow tie significantly warmer than a silk one? Probably not, but the look is touch too wintry for, say, a black tie summer wedding.
My son is escorting girl friend to prom. He has his own formal wear – modern fit peak collar jacket, cummerbund and flat front pants. Girl insists he wear a black formal shirt with tie that apparently she is having made (black and gold) to match her dress. Do I assume correctly he wears black braces because of the shirt issue? His studs are mother of pearl – okay with shirt thing?
Finally he wants to wear his opera pumps.
Any thoughts?
Aaaah prom. So many ill-conceived outfits. It sounds like your boy’s getting good advice at home but, of course, girls trump Mom and Dad.
We’re with you on the black braces. Mother of pearl studs, if they’re white, will contrast strongly with the black shirt and likely overpower the outfit since the shirt and jacket will both be black. We’re recommend black studs, for the same reason we agreed with you on the black braces, to keep the attention on his face, not on the sharp contrasts on his shirt.
Keep the young gentleman looking sharp!
Hi..
I am a groom to be.. Iam planing to wear white tux and white shirt with black buttons and black toursurs.
But iam little confused about, belt or cummerbund.!! I have a brown belt and a black cummerbund with me.
Which will be more matching to the mentiond tux.
We say go with the black cummerbund and forego the belt altogether. Any black tie look—full tuxedo or dinner jacket and pants—shouldn’t be worn with a belt. In fact, true tuxedo pants shouldn’t even have belt loops. Congrats and good luck suiting up for your wedding!
The button on the front of my husband’s tux jacket fell off and was lost. The sleeve cuff buttons are fabric covered, does the front button also have to be covered? I have to buy a replacement button and we don’t remember what was there to start with. Thanks for your advice.
Yes, the front button should also be fabric covered and likely was to start. You can reference any of our tuxedos to see what a fabric covered front button looks like on a tuxedo!
My son’s prom is coming up and he has pretty much everything ready except he is debating about the bow tie. Blue velvet dinner jacket(black lapels), black tuxedo pants, black shoes, white French cuff shirt, cuff links (obviously)…
bow tie black or Blue jackard. I know that black is much classier and elegant, but because it’s high school and he’s still so young, couldn’t he get away with jazzing it up a bit with the blue bow tie?
First off, kudos to you for taking an interest in your son’s style!
To answer the question about the bow tie, we generally think some of the rules of black tie can be bent. In fact, we wrote a whole article about it. But one rule we adhere to is that black tie requires a tie that is black. Why? Partially because it just sounds silly to wear a non-black tie to a black tie event. But the main reason we follow this rule is that the color of the tie has meaning. White tie, black tie’s more formal brother, is for different types of events.
All these social codes and rules can make you feel a little like you’re living at Downton Abbey and we realize that prom is a celebration, not an opportunity for climbing the social ladder of early 20th century British aristocracy, but still, we recommend sticking with the classics and keeping the tie black.
I have a midnight blue velvet tux and wondering what kind of bowtie would go with it? I am definitely going to do a black one but should it be velvet or silk? And what colour pocket square would you suggest? I am wearing it for my wedding reception.
We recommend the classic black silk bow tie. You don’t want to go overboard on the velvet, but props on the tux—you’re going to look badass at your wedding reception.
Would I be able to wear a tuxedo with a matching african print bow tie and pocket square, with black suspenders to a wedding where no dress code was specified?
This sounds like one kick-ass outfit. Its definitely wedding appropriate, but we’re worried that no dress code was specified. If the wedding was black tie than that would’ve definitely been specified. Since the dress code wasn’t specific, we’re thinking it could be a more casual affair and your outfit is very formal. If possible, it couldn’t hurt to reach out to the bride/groom to clarify and if they get back to you with a “semi-formal” or “cocktail attire” answer, then check out this story on decoding the wedding dress code.
Can I wear a peak lapel jacket open with a vest?
Of course you can! This is a very dapper combination so don’t be afraid to take the risk.
Can I wear a paisley bow tie with a tux at a wedding/not black tie situation. And would the cummerbund then have to match the bow tie?
You can, but you will probably look over-dressed if the wedding attire has not been deemed “black tie”. You could also end up looking like or competing with the groom’s appearance (a big no-no). In any case, your cummerbund shouldn’t match your bow tie if said bow tie is paisley. This rule should only be applied to traditional black tie, mainly solid colors. If you need some ideas on what to wear to a wedding with a certain dress code, read this.
Hello, I am a bride-to-be.
I asked my fiancé to get a tuxedo for our wedding, and he did.
He wants to use a coral color bow tie with a pocket piece of same colour.
What do you think about him using a belt, instead of a cummerbund?
Please, I would like to help me convince him with your express reply.
Thanks so much
Hello there, Ms. Bride-to-Be. Congrats on your upcoming wedding! Your fiancé can swap out the cummerbund for a belt no problem. It will give a less prom-y look than a coral colored cummerbund would. If you were thinking about getting a cummerbund the color of his tux (we’re guessing it’s black or blue), this would definitely be a more formal option. A belt, as long as it’s nice, will still make him look very put-together on your big day. We say you should approach this situation depending on the formality of your wedding. Hope this helps & good luck!
I had a tuxedo tailored for me recently along with a shirt, which was wing collared. Though I like them both, I am starting to feel that the turn-down collar would give a more appealing look. Should I get a new one with tune-down?
We recommend turn-down collars these days. They are more modern and let the bow tie take back a little bit of the limelight. You should let your personal style — are your more modern or more old school? — influence your decision, but it definitely doesn’t hurt to have both in your wardrobe 🙂
Hi blacklapel going for the same black bow and tux. But what is I am concerned is the colour of the shoes. Wanted to look little different and I thought having a dark brownish leather shoes? Is it good or I am heading towards some sort of embarrassment? The function is sort of farewell.
Hey there, Aman. Unfortunately, we’re always going to recommend black shoes with a black tuxedo. That being said, we still believe in personal style and admire your desire to stand out from a sea of black tuxedos paired with black shoes. You aren’t heading towards embarrassment by wearing dark brown leather shoes, your look may just be heading towards a more casual appearance overall. This could be OK for a farewell function. Our final thought? If you want to stand out by not wearing black shoes, you may want to go with an even lighter/brighter pair of brown leather shoes.
I typically see the white pique tuxedo vest worn with tuxedo coats with tails. I’ve purchased a black single-button peak lapel tuxedo (no tail), and would like to wear a white vest with white bow tie. Can the white pique vest be worn with the peak lapel coat? If not, what are some good options?
The white bow tie changes everything. Black tie is one level of formality lower than white tie. For most people black tie is the highest level of formality they’re going to dress for. White tie is for really BIG events like the Nobel Prize ceremony or a coronation. If you’re not getting honored for your groundbreaking work in Chemistry or about to be crowned the king of your own country, white tie can be a bit much. The same is true for a morning coat (one with tails).
Similarly a white pique waistcoat is a little over the top. A black waistcoat, either single- or double-breasted with lapels that match the jacket is the way to go if you’re going to wear a waistcoat with a peak lapel tux. The other option, a black cummerbund, is a stylish move and it’s much easier to get one to fit you flawlessly.
I am attending a “Black Tie Optional” event, so I am planning on flirting a few rules. One is that I want to leave off the waistcoat/cummerbund. So, obviously I now have a gap in my studs. What are my options? Would it be acceptable to leave off the studs and just have buttons? I would rather not keep my jacket on all night.
If you’re eschewing the cummerbund and waistcoat, then your best bet is to avoid studs and use a hidden placket in your shirt so that you have a smooth front like this.
For more on bending the black tie rules, check out our story on going Beyond Black Tie.
Hi guys,
Can i wear normal colored tie instead of a bow with tuxedo having satin shawl type lapel ?
Hi Ammar, I’m not totally sure what you mean by “normal colored tie.” But if you’re rocking a black tuxedo with a satin shawl lapel, you best be wearing a black tie or bow tie to keep your look classically formal!
Hello, I’m attending a black tie wedding next month and would like to know if a dark grey (almost black) tux would be appropriate? The tux follows most of your recommendations. The reason for considering the dark grey over traditional black is the fit. All the black jackets I tried on just didn’t fit right. Instead of going beyond my budget for a better tux, I’m considering the dark grey tux. Its not a flashy tux but I am worried about being the only guy with a non black tux. And eventually standing out like a sore thumb. Would appreciate any help, thanks.
A black tuxedo is traditional, but for a festive affair like a wedding other colors are definitely acceptable (within reason, of course). But before we address color, we should address the real problem here: fit. If fit is your problem, you came to the right place to solve it. Black Lapel offers a made-to-measure tuxedos that can be completely customized to your liking at reasonable prices. Want a tuxedo that fits you flawlessly? Here you go.
And, when you do the math, you might find that owning a quality tuxedo is less expensive than renting. For more individual advice on how to get a great fitting tuxedo, email us at concierge@blacklapel.com.
I have a wedding coming up and the groom is a stylist. Needless to say it will be a very fashion-forward crowd. I am in love with Christian Louboutin’s Dandelion Tassel Flat in black patent leather. My tuxedo is black, single button, peak lapel, and slim fit. I also have gotten it tailored to fit me perfectly. The shoe is a loafer and that is what I am wary about. I know there is a trend now where the stars are doing a loafer with a tuxedo but I don’t want to look like a clown who doesn’t know how to dress in black tie. I also am wondering: is it okay to not wear socks with them (which also seems to be on trend)? Help. lol
If you’re worried these shoes aren’t formal enough, fear not. Formal opera pumps, as we noted above, are a classic old-school black tie shoe. According to strict black tie rules, lace-ups are actually the less formal of the two.
As for wearing them sockless, that is definitely out of bounds by the traditional rules of black tie. But rules are for beginners. The truly stylish man understands them well enough to know how to bend and break them when he deems it sartorially necessary. Here’s the thing about going sockless in a tuxedo: you’ve got to make sure your ankles are well-kept. Nothing breaks up the continuity of a perfectly creased pair of wool formal pants and a pair of patent leather formal pumps more than a gnarly, hairy, pale, ankle and foot. If your ankles would look better with socks, then don’t eschew the socks just to be trendy. In other words, tread carefully.
What about a pocket square- any specific tips (other than it being white?). Also, how good are typical alterations on rentals?
If you’re wondering about how to fold the pocket square, we like the puff fold for a black tie look, but a square fold is always acceptable.
Not sure what your question is about rental tuxedos. Actually, it doesn’t matter, our answer will be the same: we don’t recommend renting a tuxedo. Aside from the horrible fits, they’re not always the deal you might be thinking they are. Even if you don’t buy a tuxedo from us, we’d still recommend you buy a tuxedo instead of renting.
Seams like fashion is trending toward tuxedo with bowtie not black tie. Tuxedo and bowtie can one wear suspenders, or suspenders are of the game?
Suspenders, or braces as the brits like to say, are a classic part of a black tie outfit (by the way, “black tie” refers to a tuxedo with a bow tie). Belts are not a part of the black tie outfit, so suspenders are the way to hold up your pants. Take off the cummerbund or waistcoat on our black tie outfits and you’re likely to find a pair of suspenders.
Can I wear a black vest with thin white pin stripes with my tuxedo?
Pinstripes are usually saved for business suits, Bryan. If you’re looking to add an odd waistcoat to a tux, try a solid gray, like we did here for a little contrast.
I was wondering, would a black bowtie with black cufflinks and studs work with a navy or midnight blue tuxedo? The lapels of the tuxedo are also navy albeit a different shade, and so I was wondering if it is a must that the bowtie matches the lapels, as I’ve often seen navy tuxedos with black lapel and a black bowtie, but not with a different shade of navy lapels. I could attach a picture of the tuxedo but I’m not sure how (the picture was taken by my Camera, not from Google).
Traditionally a dinner jacket has a satin or grosgrain lapel that is black regardless of the fabric color. That’s what you’d get if you got a tuxedo from Black Lapel. We can’t speak for other brands, but we stick with black for our tuxedo lapels.
Regardless, mixing blue and black is proper when it comes to formal wear, so your black bow tie and accessories sound just right. After all, they call it “black tie” for a reason.
If you have other questions about your black tie outfit, feel free to send your pictures and questions along to concierge@blacklapel.com for more one-on-one style advice.
So, If I am wearing formal braces, do I also need a cumberbund?
It’s a common misconception that a cummerbund is just a big belt, so we can see how you would ask if you could do away with it if you’re wearing braces. But a cummerbund is not meant to hold up your pants, but to cover your midsection. The two items (braces and cummerbunds) happen to be in the same area of your body but they’re not mutually exclusive.
A lot of guys are anti-cummerbund but many of us are sticking with them. (We are even divided within the Black Lapel team.) But if you’re looking to play it by the book, either a cummerbund or a waistcoat is required for black tie events, but braces are optional.
Is a one button or a two button tux jacket a better choice for a more portly father of the bride?
A one button tuxedo jacket is always the move, Steve, regardless of size. Wearing a two-button tuxedo is punching your ticket on the express to Scrubville. If you’re concerned about the fit, the key is not to try to hide under a jacket that’s got enough fabric for two, just give yourself some room in a couple of key areas like the stomach and hips.
If you really want to nail the fit (not to toot our own horn but “toot toot”) you should order one to your exact measurements from us.
Hi,
I am somewhat confused. I am looking at a tuxedo to purchase and it has belt loops on the pants and two buttons on the jacket, yet it is contrary to Black Lapel to wear. Also is it appropriate to wear a colored handkerchief or is white the standard?
Contrary to Black Lapel, this tuxedo is not as stylish or classic as one of our tuxedos 🙂 You may want to consider a custom tux so you can select all the proper details. The color of your accessories should depend on the color of your tux. If it’s a black tux, stick to a white handkerchief, but if it’s a shade of blue, you can definitely mix in a colored handkerchief.
During prom last year I took the advice of this article (with a bit of inspiration from Casino Royale and Skyfall) and shed my neon green vest and pre-tied bow tie for something reminiscent to that worn by 007. For the evening I donned a beautiful slim fit tuxedo shirt with an actual bow tie (it was worth the extra 10 minutes to learn how to tie) complete with black onyx studs and cuff links. My trousers, which sat on the waist, just below the navel, were held up with white braces ,not clip ons, another influence from Casino Royale. Finally the jacket itself which I had “brought in” at my local tailor, who did a flawless job, fit perfectly, showing a bit of cuff which of course brought the onyx cuff links into focus. It’s silk peaked lapels glowed with a radiance with which I could hardly describe. Looking in the mirror I found myself astounded, for the first time in the history of prom I didn’t feel like a poorly dressed, stereotype of my generation, I felt like a man. The only thing that matched my date, who was lost for words throughout most of the night, was the small white rose and green ribbon boutonnière which sat firmly on my lapel, a small compliment to my dates beautiful dress. Throughout the night both students and teachers raved over my attire, many saying that the only other things needed were a Walther and a Vodka Martini, oh and an Aston Martin in place of my Monte Carlo sitting in the parking lot. Nearly every other guy I talked to that evening told me that they would follow my example for next year by keeping it simple, keeping it classic, and not following any trends, and I’m damn proud of it. Regards, Dave.
This is a fantastic story, Dave. Our goal is that more young men follow in your footsteps and start dressing better, living better and becoming better. You’ve set a great example. Here’s to you.
Can I wear black dress pants with a tuxedo jacket?
In a pinch, yes, Monty, you can do this, but expect discerning eyes to notice. We recommend getting a pair of proper formal pants like these, ASAP.
Hey I didn’t hear you mention anything about wearing a vest with the tux. What do you think about that? Is it too much or good?
We love a vest with a tux, Edward. The “waistcoat” we referred to above is actually a vest. We not only like them, we offer them with all of our tuxedos and recommend them if you want to put a modern take on the stylish rogue look of yesteryear.
I got my Black Lapel tuxedo (one button, peak lapel, with a waistcoat) a month ago. Wearing proper black tie in a perfectly fitting suit is probably as close to godlike as gets to feel. I’m hosting my second black tie party this weekend and have worn it to the opera three times. On opening night and when I’m hosting events I wear it with a white linen pocket square, a pique wing collar dress shirt and a white waistcoat for the most formal look possible. On other nights at the opera I wear it with the black waistcoat, a pleated turn-down collar and a maroon pocket square for a (relatively) more relaxed look. I wear patent leather oxfords with silk shoe laces for a great finishing touch
Definitely sounds like you’re knocking ’em dead, Seth!
Got some pics to send along?
What about us in the military? Is military dress formal appropriate for black tie events?
Military dress formal is acceptable at black tie events but really works better for military events. Consider the mood of the event. If you’re going to a joyous occasion like a civilian friend’s black tie wedding, rolling up in military regalia may make you look seriously out of place.
Where is the waist covering? It isn’t proper unless your trousers are made with a wide waistband, usually in satin to match the braiding on the leg hem. This is also only really an option for men who are in excellent shape as it will look sloppy on anyone else. A cummerbund for a shawl lapel or waist coat (a low, 3 button backless or full-backed model and definitely not the rental variety that is 6 button or more) for peak lapel is a necessity. Men who choose not to wear one often think they will look more modern, but mostly it just looks sloppy especially since your studs only go down so far on your tuxedo shirt, creating an unsightly gap. Said gap was designed to be covered.
Anyhow, need a waistcoat or cummerbund, everything else looks great.
You make a good point, Josh. Though a waist covering is considered optional, we are pro-cummerbund/waistcoat. While we do like to assume that our readers are in excellent shape, ;-), a waist covering is always a good look. We’ve added in a section on the options.
Sounds like you’ve been to a few black tie events. Care to tell us how you what was your secret to looking fly in black tie?
Josh, if you must go without a waist covering, trousers with a higher rise than the current fashion standard help. It also helps if your evening shirt has buttons in place of the studs or a covered “fly” front. That way there isn’t a button all by its lonesome while the studs have a party up top.
I had myselft tailored a tux just 4 weeks ago and I really love it! It fits perfectly and I had to be careful to not look better than the bridegroom for who’s wedding I got it for! But: though I didn’t use them, the trousers do have belt loops. Should I bring them back to have them removed?
Good eye for detail, Jack. If you’re a strictly by-the-book guy, then removing the belt loops is the way to go. That said, if you plan to wear a cummerbund, the waist will not be seen and the belt loops will be our little secret ;-).
If you plan to wear a waistcoat you still don’t run the risk of many people seeing it.
If you plan to go with the waist uncovered, though, and want to present a sleek look, remove the belt loops. Since you won’t be able to wear a belt to hold your pants up, you should consider getting suspender buttons sewn into the pants and getting some braces like the ones referenced above.