Partial Inner Lining
Q: You mentioned “partial linings” in your recent post, How to Chill Out Your Summer Suit. What is it exactly and how is different from your normal inner lining? – Rick T.
A: A normal suit has a layer of interior lining material throughout almost the entire inside of the suit jacket (Black Lapel suits are lined with Bemberg lining material which feels like silk but is stronger and more durable). A partial lining option is a special customization option that means that the back of the suit is tailored with just the suit fabric and none of the typical inner lining. This allows for a little more breathability in your suit, and more importantly, gives us suit fiends a strategy for surviving the brutal summer heat in a suit without bursting into flames. Bonus points: It looks badass!
Got any further questions on partial lining? Leave a comment below!
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I want to thank you for sharing idea to Customization of this suit
Partial lining is very common in Japan. It can be detected if fabric is thin.
Those stylish gents in Japan know a thing or two!
It is true, with thin fabrics partial lining can be detected. As Jovan noted above, though, the partial lining on Black Lapel suits isn’t noticeable.
Do you still offer partial inner linings? I was in the middle of ordering a suit when I realized I couldn’t find the option anywhere.
Yes, we do partial lining by special request for an additional fee of $30, Andy. If you’d like partial lining, please email us at concierge@blacklapel.com and we’ll take care of it for you.
I like the idea of a half lined suit but it’d be even better if there was less lining. Why the need to have the lining on the top half of the back of jacket?
A fully non-lined jacket is usually saved for more casual sport jackets that have a deliberately soft more natural shape. For most men, a little more form to the silhouette of their suit jacket is a good thing. Partial lining is a great way to compromise and get the cooling benefits of an unlined jacket but retain the look of a lined one.
Hope this is a helpful explanation. Stay cool, Gary.
Evening,
I’ve ordered a suit from you all on the 2nd of this month. I’ve just now learned about this partial lining… Would it still be possible to request got that? Is that really all it’s for, just for the summer? Does it change in shape or feel? It’s real hot here in Texas and I plan on moving to Hawaii, which is pretty much sun and rain all year long. Would it be that much of a help? My order is Processing at Tailor right now, and I will not mind honestly if you are not able to do it.
Unfortunately we cannot make major changes to the customization or design of an order after 48 hours, Roland. That said, you should definitely try partial lining on your next suit!
To answer your question, partial lining is for warm weather, so in parts of Texas and pretty much all of Hawaii (except maybe the top Haleakala!) where it’s warm all year long, you can definitely wear a partially lined suit all year long. The part where the lining is removed isn’t where there is any canvas, even on a full canvas suit (for more on canvassing check out this post on suit jacket construction so the partial lining doesn’t affect the shape of the jacket.
Now let’s get to the real heart of the matter, when are you inviting us to Hawaii for some Hanging Out With Black Lapel – Island Style?
Evening,
I want to thank you for clearing some things up. I will definitely take it up with my next suit!
I’m embarrassed to say I may not be dapper enough to walk alongside men as you all. But, you are always welcome to bring style into the islands!
Glad to be of help, Roland. Definitely let us know when you’re ready to get another suit and you’ll be fully chillin’ in your partially lined jacket. Then you’ll be dappered up and we can do a special Hawaiian “Hang Loose With Black Lapel” post!
Roland,
I live in Hawaii and am moving back to Texas at the end of August. The weather here is usually consistent at mid 70s to mid 80s all year round. That said, I’ve felt over dressed here on the island in a suit, especially since aloha shirts are typical of business wear. Hate to say it, but you may not have a chance to wear your suits often here. I definitely will consider partial lining on my suits for Dallas, although the winters months there may make me reconsider.
That Aloha spirit is a powerful thing. It even affects the wardrobe! Texas might be a different story, though, when it comes to wearing your suits. Partial lining will definitely help in the Texan summers.
I really wanna see how the amount of lining affect the shape of a jacket. Use one fabric type, say worsted wool, and make a full-, and some partial-lined (half, quarter, none, etc) jackets, and put those on someone.
Funny you should say that, Joshua. For this article, we tried our hardest to take a photo of someone in a partially lined jacket that you could tell was partially lined. Finally we realized the only way you can see is if the model takes the jacket off, so that’s what we did.
Please post the photo. I’m not a fan of linen (for summer) and I wonder if I could have partially lined wordsted wool jacket instead. But, you know, I have to see if it looks good before having it made.
Since you couldn’t tell the suit was partially lined, we tossed the original photos from that shoot, but stay tuned, we’ll post something to show you the difference (or lack thereof).
Joshua, as one of the first customers (if not THE first) to get the partial lining option, I can tell you right now that it’s undetectable… unless you’re reaching forward and someone is REALLY LOOKING CLOSELY at the back. And they know what to look for. Seriously.
All jackets used to be made like this prior to about the ’80s, when more and more manufacturers decided it wasn’t worth the expense and time. Diminishing returns or something. But it definitely makes the best out of a lightweight suit. I also opt for no trouser lining. It would be great for BL to have both these options in the “Advanced” menu.
Well put, Jovan. Hopefully if somebody’s close enough to notice your suit’s lining as you take off the jacket, the last thing she’s thinking about is your suit’s lining!
Is the option available on all your suits?
Does the option cost extra?
If ordered, would the suits still feature the sous bras?
Had i known this, i would have definitely ordered this on my BL navy suit, since i live in Puerto Rico, which means hot and humid all year.
Carlos, living in Puerto Rico means you can wear partially lined suits all year long and keep stylishly cool.
To answer your questions, yes the partial lining option is available on all Black Lapel suits, we’ve even had this request for tuxedos. We charge $30 for partial lining. The sous bras (the small swear guards in the armpits of the jacket, are not affected by partial lining. It’s definitely a good option for hot and humid Caribbean islands like Puerto Rico.