Explaining Suit Super Numbers and What They Mean (And Don’t Mean)
Understanding a Suit Super Number: What Can You Actually Learn From It?
Introduction
When shopping for a suit, you might come across terms like “Super 110s” or “Super 130s” associated with the fabric. But what does a suit super number mean, and how do they impact the quality and feel of your suit? In this post, we will delve into the concept of suit super numbers, demystifying what they represent, how they are determined, and how they can influence your choice of suiting fabric.
What Are Suit Super Numbers?
The term suit “super number” often appears when discussing high-quality suiting fabrics. Contrary to popular belief, the suit super number is not a direct measure of fabric quality but rather a technical classification that relates to the fineness of the wool fibers used in the fabric. In essence: suit super numbers do not directly correlate to quality, but do help to define the characteristics of wool or other fibers.
Super numbers are typically used in the context of wool fabrics and are similar to thread count in other textiles, like bed sheets. Think of it like this: if you felt a 200 thread count sheet, and compared it to an 800 thread count sheet, you’d notice a much softer hand-feel on the 800 thread count sheets. However, the 200 count sheets might be more durable. Confusing, right? Let’s continue.
Key Takeaway: Super numbers indicate the fineness of wool fibers in a fabric, with higher numbers signifying finer threads.
How Are Super Numbers Determined?
Super numbers are determined during the fabric milling process. Specifically, they measure the diameter of the wool fibers, with higher numbers corresponding to thinner, finer fibers. For example, a Super 110s fabric contains wool fibers that are finer than those in a Super 100s fabric. The process of achieving higher suit super numbers requires precision and advanced milling techniques, as finer threads are more delicate and challenging to work with.
Amazingly, the finest fibers in the world are sourced from a very specific breed of animal, the Vicuña, a camelid native to the Andes Mountains. It is both the finest and rarest wool in the world.
A sketch of a Vicuna, a producer of the most coveted wool in the world.
Common Misconceptions About Super Numbers
One of the most common misconceptions about suit super numbers is that they are a direct indicator of the fabric’s overall quality. While it is true that higher suit super numbers often correlate with finer, softer fabrics, this does not necessarily mean that a Super 150s fabric is inherently better than a Super 110s fabric. The overall quality of the fabric also depends on the raw materials used, the craftsmanship involved in the milling process, and how the fabric is finished.
In fact, because of the fineness of the threads, we don’t recommend higher suit super numbers for suits that undergo more regular wear. Lower suit super numbers, and in turn beefier threads, are often much better “suited” for daily wear and holding up to the grind.
The fineness of wool fibers can be hard to discern from just a swatch, so our specialists can guide you to the suit with the perfect drape and durability for you.
Key Takeaway: A higher suit super number does not automatically mean a higher quality fabric; other factors, such as the milling process and raw materials, are equally important.
The Importance of the Milling Process
The milling process plays a crucial role in determining the final quality of the fabric, regardless of its super number. High suit super number fabrics require meticulous attention during milling because finer threads are more prone to damage and imperfections. However, even fabrics with lower suit super numbers can be of exceptional quality if they are produced with care and precision. On the flip side, a high suit super number fabric can suffer in quality if it undergoes a subpar milling process.
Common Suit Super Numbers
Two of the most commonly encountered suit super numbers in suiting fabrics are Super 110s and Super 130s. These numbers represent a balance between fineness and durability, making them popular choices for a wide range of suits.
- Super 110s Fabric: Super 110s fabric is known for its versatility and durability. The wool fibers are fine enough to provide a soft feel, yet thick enough to withstand regular wear and tear. This makes Super 110s a popular choice for all-season suits. A well-known example is the Four Season collection from Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), which is often recommended for its year-round wearability.
This navy sharkskin suit may have a 110s suit super number, but heritage mill Vitale Barberis Canonico puts great care into milling this fine fabric.
- Super 130s Fabric: Super 130s fabric offers a finer, softer feel than Super 110s, making it ideal for those who prioritize comfort and luxury. However, due to the finer threads, Super 130s suits are often more delicate and may require more careful handling and maintenance. This fabric is perfect for special occasions or business settings where a refined appearance is essential.
Our burgundy mohair suit from Vitale Barberis Canonico is a lovely 130s suit woven with a bit of mohair, a renowned luxury wool, increasing it’s super number.
- Super 150s Fabric: Super 150s fabrics are the upper echelon of fine wool threads, often with a subtle sheen and lovely drape. But these fabrics do get expensive, and they’re more useful for suits worn sparingly so as not to wear through the delicate fibers. Think wedding suit, evening tuxedo, or even ivory dinner jacket.
Key Takeaway: Super 110s is versatile and durable, making it a great all-season choice, while Super 130s offers a softer, more luxurious feel ideal for special occasions.
Choosing the Right Super Number for Your Suit
Use this as a general guide. But as you learned, suit super numbers never tell the whole story.
When choosing a suit, the suit super number is just one of many factors to consider. While a higher suit super number can provide a finer, softer fabric, it may not always be the best choice depending on your needs. For everyday wear, a Super 110s fabric might be more practical due to its durability and resistance to wear. For special occasions or if you prefer a more luxurious feel, a Super 130s or higher might be more suitable.
If you are unsure which suit super number is right for you, just ask your specialist. We’re incredibly good at guiding you based on your specific needs, preferences, and how often you plan to wear the suit.
Key Takeaway: Consider the balance between durability and luxury when choosing a suit super number; a knowledgeable clothier can help you make the best decision.
Conclusion
Understanding suit super numbers can greatly enhance your ability to choose the right fabric for your suit. While higher suit super numbers generally indicate finer wool fibers, they do not necessarily guarantee superior quality. The key to selecting the perfect fabric lies in considering both the suit super number and the overall quality of the milling process.
Whether you are looking for a durable, all-season suit with a Super 110s fabric or a luxurious garment with a Super 130s fabric, understanding these nuances will ensure you make an informed decision. Remember, the best fabric is one that not only looks good but also feels comfortable and suits your lifestyle.
Final Note: If you have any questions about suit fabrics or need further guidance, our expert tailors are here to help you find the perfect fabric for your next suit.
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