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What Quality Means to Us
At Black Lapel, we believe a custom men’s jacket should do more than just fit. It should elevate your entire wardrobe. Our Custom Jacket Quality Guide is designed to give you an inside look at what makes our jackets exceptional, from the first stitch to the final fitting.
Hand-Crafted Canvassing
Think of canvassing as the skeleton of your jacket. It provides weight, structure and drape to your garment. Many companies will take shortcuts here by including synthetic interlinings, glues, or fusing your interlining to your suiting fabric. Whether you choose full canvas or half canvas, all of our jackets are hand-crafted with true, natural fiber floating canvas construction, meaning excellent drape, durability, and shape for the life of your garment.
Natural Buttons
While many suit buttons, especially colored ones, are made from plastics, we prefer offering naturally sourced buttons on our jacket. These age and patina gracefully, and are less prone to chips, scratches, and wear. With options ranging from classic horn to corozo and mother of pearl, each button will be as unique and full of character as your jacket.
Pick-Stitching
Pick stitching is the hand-constructed finishing stitch along the edge of most seams on the front of your jacket–you can recognize it from the dimpled appearance it creates in the fabric. The time consuming nature of this stitch is a subtle, yet refined way of showing off the quality of your suit and its custom nature.
Bemberg Lining
Bemberg is synonymous with the best when it comes to suit linings, balancing important qualities like durability and strength while remaining breathable and cool to the touch. Made from a proprietary process for refining cotton, it's yet another case where we prefer natural fibers over cheaper synthetics and polyester.
Functional Buttonholes
Many off-the-rack suits (and even some custom suits) will use non-functional buttonholes on the sleeves and boutonniere of the jacket –usually intentionally to cheapen the cost, or allow for tailoring the sleeve length later. At Black Lapel we’re so confident in our fit process that we’re not afraid to incorporate real, functional cuffs and boutonnieres on all jackets.
The Signature Suit Jackets
A timeless expression of modern sophistication. Discover expertly tailored suit jackets designed to elevate your wardrobe with refined silhouettes, premium fabrics, and exceptional craftsmanship. From classic business attire to special occasions, each jacket brings together effortless elegance, comfort, and a distinguished fit.