An Introduction

Every Black Lapel jacket is crafted using the finest fabrics and finishes sourced from top mills around the world. We invest in premium materials at every step to ensure your custom jacket looks, feels, and lasts like no other. Read on to explore our construction standards and see what makes a Black Lapel jacket truly best-in-class.

See for Yourself

Navy blazer with textured lining on a mannequin against a brick wall.

Hand-Crafted Canvassing

Think of canvassing as the skeleton of your jacket–it provides weight, structure and drape to your garment. Many companies will take shortcuts here by including synthetic interlinings, glues, or fusing your interlining to your suiting fabric. Whether you choose full canvas or half canvas, all of our jackets are hand-crafted with true, natural fiber floating canvas construction, meaning excellent drape, durability, and shape for the life of your garment.

tortoise buttons on a mauve plaid jacket

Natural Buttons

While many suit buttons, especially colored ones, are made from plastics, we prefer offering naturally sourced buttons on our jacket. These age and patina gracefully, and are less prone to chips, scratches, and wear. With options ranging from classic horn to corozo and mother of pearl, each button will be as unique and full of character as your jacket.

pick stitching on a blue herringbone jacket

Pick-Stitching

Pick stitching is the hand-constructed finishing stitch along the edge of most seams on the front of your jacket–you can recognize it from the dimpled appearance it creates in the fabric. The time consuming nature of this stitch is a subtle, yet refined way of showing off the quality of your suit and its custom nature..

grey Paisley bemberg lining

Bemberg Lining

Bemberg is synonymous with the best when it comes to suit linings, balancing important qualities like durability and strength while remaining breathable and cool to the touch. Made from a proprietary process for refining cotton, it's yet another case where we prefer natural fibers over cheaper synthetics and polyester.

Functional Buttonholes

Many off-the-rack suits (and even some custom suits) will use non-functional buttonholes on the sleeves and boutonniere of the jacket –usually intentionally to cheapen the cost, or allow for tailoring the sleeve length later. At Black Lapel we’re so confident in our fit process that we’re not afraid to incorporate real, functional cuffs and boutonnieres on all jackets.

Where to Next?

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What Quality Means to Us

At Black Lapel, we believe a custom men’s jacket should do more than just fit—it should elevate your entire wardrobe. Our Custom Jacket Quality Guide is designed to give you an inside look at what makes our jackets exceptional, from the first stitch to the final fitting.

We start with world-class materials sourced from renowned heritage mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Reda, and Loro Piana—names synonymous with luxury and long-lasting performance. Whether you’re investing in a wool blazer for the boardroom or a seasonal linen jacket for summer weddings, every fabric is hand-selected for its durability, drape, and timeless appeal.

But premium fabric is just the beginning. Each Black Lapel jacket is cut and crafted by skilled artisans in our own workshop, where we control every detail of the tailoring process. Our patternmakers tailor every piece to your individual measurements and posture, ensuring a flawless fit that’s as comfortable as it is sharp. From hand-set shoulder pads to canvassed construction and carefully rolled lapels, we bring together old-world craftsmanship and modern precision.

This guide breaks down the elements that define jacket quality—from lapel structure and internal canvassing to lining materials and functional sleeve buttons—so you can make an informed decision when building your next custom jacket.

Because at Black Lapel, we don’t just make jackets—we create garments that are built to last, styled to impress, and tailored to you.

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